We finished the Great Loop on May 31, 2024! It was an incredible excursion, filled with warm memories of people we met, delightful moments, “oh no!” experiences, and a sense of accomplishment. We are sad it is over, and look forward to future boat trips.
This post covers the last Great Loop segment: the Great Lakes. Leaving the Erie Canal in Tonawanda NY, we cruised to Muskegon MI via Erie PA, Edgewater OH, Wyandotte MI, Lexington, Harrisville, Presque Isle, Mackinac Island, and Leland.
Warning, this is a long blog. You may want to refresh your coffee before beginning.
May 22: Tonawanda NY to Erie Yacht Club, Erie PA (Total traveled: 96.6m). Knowing the Niagara River’s current adds time, we left Tonawanda at 5:00AM. With “only” 1.6 knots against us, at 6:30AM, we were the first in line for the Black Rock Canal’s 8:00AM lock opening (note: 8AM opening if there’s no down bound traffic).
Following the lock are 3 bridges. At least the first bridge’s clearance is incorrectly listed at 16.7’ in the Waterway Guide. A faster boat that locked through with us left the lock first. They had a 14’ clearance and hit their anchor light (minor damage but still…) when going under the bridge. The bridge operator then opened the swing bridge, as well as the next bridge. The last bridge has a 90’+ clearance.
Once through the lock and bridges we entered the open waters of Lake Erie. We were cruising comfortably until hearing over the VHF: “Hello all stations.” [3x] “This is United States Coast Guard Sector Eastern Great Lakes. A severe thunderstorm advisory has been issued for the Georgian Bay and Eastern Lake Erie…” We passed through that very severe thunderstorm — complete with extensive lightning, near zero visibility and sporty seas from all directions — jostled but unharmed. Thank You, God! The next severe thunderstorm dissipated before reaching us. Thank You, God!
Safely we arrived in Presque Isle Bay, dodging sail boats on our way to the Erie Yacht Club. I missed the calm waters of the Erie Canal and dolphin sightings of the ICW that lighten trying days. What did lighten our day was that the folks who had passed us in the lock, and whom we had seen a few times along the Erie Canal, had been tracking us through the storms. They were waiting for us as we pulled into the marina, and treated us to dinner (thank you!).
May 23: Erie PA to Edgewater Yacht Club, Edgewater OH (by Cleveland) (Total traveled: 105.0m). Today was a new day! The storms had passed. The wind and waves were calm, and we were traveling near shore. All good things. Still, whenever the Coast Guard came over the VHF, “Hello all stations…,” even for only a standard communication, I braced for bad weather news.
May 24: Edgewater OH to Wyandotte Marina, Wyandotte MI (Total traveled: 94.3m). THREE STATES IN 3 DAYS! Glassy seas from the early morning until about Pelee Island, and even then only a bit choppy. A 1-2mph current against us as we entered the Detroit River. A large barge followed us in from Lake Erie. The Wyandotte Marina slips were full (boating season had arrived!) and extremely hospitable. A very nice place to stay.
May 25: Wyandotte MI to Lexington State Harbor, Lexington MI (Total traveled: 103.7m). Up early to beat another storm. On this day we traveled up the Detroit River, passing the city of Detroit, to Lake St. Clair, then through the St. Clair River to Lake Huron. As we approached Port Huron the current against us in the St. Clair River has a 3-4mph current - thankfully it was only this strong for about a mile. One of our guide books indicated that the current would be less closer to the Canadian side. We stayed east toward Canada, but still burned quite a bit of fuel fighting against the current. We reached Lexington before the fuel dock and local grocery store closed. Lexington is a cute town - lots of people out enjoying the warm weather.
A shout out: The quality of the marinas operated by the Michigan Department of Natural Resources (DNR) has been impressive, and I’m not saying that because I am a Michigander. Each was well protected with a substantial rock breaker wall, the docks were wide, sturdy and newer, and clean facilities clean.
May 26: Lexington to Harrisville State Harbor, Harrisville (Total traveled: 106.0m). I was nervous about crossing Saginaw Bay. I allowed myself to be influenced by a DNR guide who said some people either won’t cross or are scared to death of this crossing. Whether oceans or Great Lakes, I have developed a strong preference for staying close enough to the shore where we can duck in if we have to. Alternatively, I want a faster boat that can get us out of impromptu storms or rougher-than-I-like seas when necessary. And stabilizers. And…the list goes on. [An important adage for me to remember: the boat can take you can.]
Rob’s confidence in Leland Tug’s abilities had us across Saginaw Bay and nearly to Harrisville by late afternoon. The waves were choppy but definitely manageable. Only in the last mile of our voyage, with the Harbor in sight, did the waves become too sporty for my liking. We anticipated this, and had tried to time our arrival before the bad weather but were catching the beginning of it. The next day the storms came through — rained all day.
Another shout out: The young adults who work at the Harrisville marina are also impressive. We never saw a dock master, but whenever we saw these workers, they were hard at work, knowledgeable, and courteous.
May 28: Harrisville to Presque Isle State Harbor, Presque Isle, MI (Total traveled: 52.9m). A shorter day to break up the long trip to Mackinac Island. The waters were initially flat. Turning the bend - the top of the Michigan mit - they became bearably beamy. Curious about a large vessel showing up—on radar—in the middle of Thunder Bay traveling at 0.2mph. Turned out to be a Thunder Bay ship wreck/glass-bottom boat tour! Took many photos of lighthouses this day. [Fun fact: Michigan has more lighthouses than another other state!]
May 29: Presque Isle to Mackinac Island (Total traveled: 68.4m). We planned an early arrival so we could enjoy the island. We biked the island’s 8.2m circumference, and enjoyed a great dinner out. Glad ferry service did not run all night — all boats in the marina get waked by ferries.
May 30: Mackinac Island to Leland Township Harbor, Leland (Total traveled: 87.6m). On this day Rob officially crossed his wake! CONGRATULATIONS TO ROB! He left Traverse City nearly a year ago to bring LT to Muskegon. A great day for him that did not go unnoticed by Preston the visionary original owner of Leland Tug. Preston even sent a delegate — Nina — for an in-person congratulations. Nina saw us as we passed their Leland home, where dog Leland Louis was basking in the sun (LT’s name sake), and met us at the dock. It was great to finally meet her and very special of her to welcome us (thank you!)! Later, other friends from Michigan and Key West, Joe and Jenny, took us out for a celebratory dinner (thank you!)!
The waters, especially starting out the day under the Mackinac Island bridge, were so calm. So glassy. Entrance to the Leland marina is known to be tricky in sporty conditions, but not the case on this particular day. Now we were one LONG day away from our joint Gold Loop status…
May 31: Leland to Harbour Towne Muskegon (Total traveled: 142.0m). Left at 3AM, arrived at 7:45 PM (well before 9:18PM sunset). A long voyage with seas that were glassy (3AM-1PM, Leland to Ludington), then “whoa, this is more than the weather apps predicted” sporty (1PM to 4PM, Ludington to Silver Lake), then calmer once again (4PM+, Silver Lake to Muskegon).
As we approached home port, we saw a dredging operation in the Muskegon Channel. It was actually comforting to not have an easy, uneventful entrance. One more time of focus and concentration, one more time of looking through binoculars at flags\signs to see on which side we should pass, one more time to slow down, be on alert, and to have the VHF at-the-ready. One last time to remember that every time on the water is exciting and unpredictable and… finite. We’ll miss you Great Loop. You certainly delivered on your promise of “an adventure of a lifetime!” [Aside: a few days later a freighter went aground at this location, proving once again that life on the waters is anything but dull.]
Thank you for sharing our time on the waters of the eastern continental United States!
Fair winds and following seas,
Amy
The Great Lakes segment: 856.5 miles
The Great Lakes segment: 856.5 miles
Our Loop: 5,833.4 miles!
Our Loop: 5,833.4 miles!
May 22, leaving Tonawanda NY for Erie PA
May 22, leaving Tonawanda NY for Erie PA
Fenders secured in the cockpit, ready for a crossing
Fenders secured in the cockpit, ready for a crossing
More fenders secured — a bit dirty from the locks
More fenders secured — a bit dirty from the locks
“Hello all stations. Hello all stations. Hello all stations. This is United States Coast Guard Sector Eastern Great Lakes…” (We are the blue dot!)
“Hello all stations. Hello all stations. Hello all stations. This is United States Coast Guard Sector Eastern Great Lakes…” (We are the blue dot!)
The waves never look as ominous in photos as they are in person
The waves never look as ominous in photos as they are in person
The second storm dissipated before reaching us
The second storm dissipated before reaching us
Presque Isle Bay Light House. We had made it to our destination: Erie PA
Presque Isle Bay Light House. We had made it to our destination: Erie PA
Entering Presque Isle Bay (where there are several marinas), Erie PA
Entering Presque Isle Bay (where there are several marinas), Erie PA
Passing marinas in Presque Isle Bay en route to the Erie Yacht Club
Passing marinas in Presque Isle Bay en route to the Erie Yacht Club
May 23, leaving the Erie Yacht Club after fueling (later start, fuel dock opened at 8AM). Heading to Edgewater OH (near Cleveland).
May 23, leaving the Erie Yacht Club after fueling (later start, fuel dock opened at 8AM). Heading to Edgewater OH (near Cleveland).
Smooth waters on the way to Edgewater OH.
Smooth waters on the way to Edgewater OH.
Along the way…
Along the way…
Along the way…
Along the way…
Nearing Cleveland…
Nearing Cleveland…
Cleveland
Cleveland
In the channel to the marinas
In the channel to the marinas
Barges in the channel
Barges in the channel
Barge about to make a stern-in maneuver
Barge about to make a stern-in maneuver
Cleveland
Cleveland
LT at Edgewater Yacht Club, Edgewater OH
LT at Edgewater Yacht Club, Edgewater OH
LT at Edgewater Yacht Club, Edgewater OH
LT at Edgewater Yacht Club, Edgewater OH
May 24, leaving Edgewater OH for Wyandotte MI
May 24, leaving Edgewater OH for Wyandotte MI
Leaving Edgewater, Cleveland skyline
Leaving Edgewater, Cleveland skyline
Sunrise on way to Wyandotte, MI
Sunrise on way to Wyandotte, MI
Glassy seas on Lake Erie on way to Wyandotte MI
Glassy seas on Lake Erie on way to Wyandotte MI
Enter midge season
Enter midge season
Trading salt-water crab pots for fresh-water fishing nets
Trading salt-water crab pots for fresh-water fishing nets
Making our way past Pelee Island (the water is beautiful)
Making our way past Pelee Island (the water is beautiful)
Entering the Detroit River…
Entering the Detroit River…
Entering the Detroit River…
Entering the Detroit River…
Barge coming in behind us
Barge coming in behind us
Barge passing us
Barge passing us
Canadian side of the Detroit River
Canadian side of the Detroit River
Ambassador Bridge sighting!
Ambassador Bridge sighting!
Industry on the Detroit River
Industry on the Detroit River
May 25, leaving Wyandotte Marina for Lexington Marina, Port Huron
May 25, leaving Wyandotte Marina for Lexington Marina, Port Huron
Along the way…
Along the way…
Gordie Howe International Bridge
Gordie Howe International Bridge
Gordie Howe International Bridge
Gordie Howe International Bridge
Gordie Howe International Bridge
Gordie Howe International Bridge
Gordie Howe International Bridge
Gordie Howe International Bridge
Gordie Howe International Bridge
Gordie Howe International Bridge
Ambassador Bridge
Ambassador Bridge
Ambassador Bridge
Ambassador Bridge
Along the way…
Along the way…
Along the way…
Along the way…
Along the way…
Along the way…
Along the way…
Along the way…
Along the way…
Along the way…
Along the way…
Along the way…
Detroit!
Detroit!
Detroit
Detroit
Windsor
Windsor
GMRenCen
GMRenCen
BCBS
BCBS
Along the way…
Along the way…
Along the way…
Along the way…
We managed to stay out of the storm for the most part
We managed to stay out of the storm for the most part
Along the way…
Along the way…
Belle Isle
Belle Isle
Belle Isle Fountain
Belle Isle Fountain
Belle Isle Conservatory
Belle Isle Conservatory
Belle Isle
Belle Isle
The shores of Belle Isle
The shores of Belle Isle
Dossin Great Lakes Museum, Belle Isle
Dossin Great Lakes Museum, Belle Isle
Leaving Detroit for Lake St. Clair
Leaving Detroit for Lake St. Clair
Good bye Detroit!
Good bye Detroit!
Coming into Lake St. Clair
Coming into Lake St. Clair
In Lake St Clair
In Lake St Clair
Coming through!
Coming through!
Fishermen…must be a Saturday morning!
Fishermen…must be a Saturday morning!
Along Lake St. Clair…
Along Lake St. Clair…
Heading out of Lake St. Clair
Heading out of Lake St. Clair
BEAUTIFUL WATER!
BEAUTIFUL WATER!
Shores of Lake St. Clair…
Shores of Lake St. Clair…
Moving into the St. Clair River (strong currents)
Moving into the St. Clair River (strong currents)
Along the St. Clair River …
Along the St. Clair River …
Along the St. Clair River …
Along the St. Clair River …
Along the St. Clair River …
Along the St. Clair River …
Along the St. Clair River …
Along the St. Clair River …
Port Huron webcam: from the St. Clair River (STRONG CURRENT) into Lake Huron
Port Huron webcam: from the St. Clair River (STRONG CURRENT) into Lake Huron
…and again…
…and again…
…and into Lake Huron!
…and into Lake Huron!
Port Huron shoreline
Port Huron shoreline
Looking back from LT, heading to Lexington
Looking back from LT, heading to Lexington
Lighthouse Park
Lighthouse Park
“Balloons on the water”
“Balloons on the water”
May 26: Leaving Lexington for Harrisville
May 26: Leaving Lexington for Harrisville
The Harbor Beach Lighthouse
The Harbor Beach Lighthouse
Waves getting sporty - happy to be in Harrisville before the storms
Waves getting sporty - happy to be in Harrisville before the storms
Harrisville Marina maintains a herb garden - available to all!
Harrisville Marina maintains a herb garden - available to all!
May 28: Leaving Harrisville for Presque Isle
May 28: Leaving Harrisville for Presque Isle
Lake Huron Lighthouse
Lake Huron Lighthouse
Thunder Bay Lighthouse
Thunder Bay Lighthouse
Middle Island Lighthouse
Middle Island Lighthouse
Nearly to Presque Isle, one barge is occupying the dock…
Nearly to Presque Isle, one barge is occupying the dock…
…while this one is anchored, waiting to dock
…while this one is anchored, waiting to dock
Old Presque Isle Lighthouse
Old Presque Isle Lighthouse
Bronze Bell from the old Lansing City Hall clock tower; 3425 lbs (60% heavier than the Liberty Bell); cast in 1896.
Bronze Bell from the old Lansing City Hall clock tower; 3425 lbs (60% heavier than the Liberty Bell); cast in 1896.
Presque Isle - Old Lighthouse and bell
Presque Isle - Old Lighthouse and bell
May 29: Leaving Presque Isle for Mackinac Island
May 29: Leaving Presque Isle for Mackinac Island
Bois Blanc Lighthouse
Bois Blanc Lighthouse
Along the way…
Along the way…
Mackinac Island!
Mackinac Island!
Mission Pointe resort
Mission Pointe resort
Coming into port!
Coming into port!
The water is so clear
The water is so clear
Around Mackinac Island…
Around Mackinac Island…
Around Mackinac Island…
Around Mackinac Island…
Waked by the ferries…
Waked by the ferries…
Arch rock (biking around the island)
Arch rock (biking around the island)
During bike ride…
During bike ride…
Mackinac Bridge…
Mackinac Bridge…
May 30: Leaving Mackinac Island for Leland
May 30: Leaving Mackinac Island for Leland
There’s the Mackinac Island bridge!!!!
There’s the Mackinac Island bridge!!!!
May 30: Mackinac Island to Leland, passing under the Mighty Mac!
May 30: Mackinac Island to Leland, passing under the Mighty Mac!
…
…
…
…
Can you believe the glassy seas?
Can you believe the glassy seas?
Rob’s side of the Mighty Mac…
Rob’s side of the Mighty Mac…
…
…
…
…
…
…
…
…
Sunrise and the Mackinac Island bridge
Sunrise and the Mackinac Island bridge
One more…
One more…
Beautiful cruising conditions to Leland
Beautiful cruising conditions to Leland
More lighthouses…
More lighthouses…
More lighthouses…
More lighthouses…
Along the way from Mackinac Island to Leland
Along the way from Mackinac Island to Leland
Coming into Leland Harbor
Coming into Leland Harbor
Beach outside of Leland Township Harbor
Beach outside of Leland Township Harbor
Nina, the original owner, came to the docks to welcome us!
Nina, the original owner, came to the docks to welcome us!
Cruisers on a mission!
Cruisers on a mission!
The original tug of Leland, the Janice Sue
The original tug of Leland, the Janice Sue
Leland Tug at Leland Marina
Leland Tug at Leland Marina
Celebratory dinner with good friends, Jenny and Joe
Celebratory dinner with good friends, Jenny and Joe
May 31: Pretty light for a 3:30AM departure, starting the 142-mile run from Leland to Muskegon
May 31: Pretty light for a 3:30AM departure, starting the 142-mile run from Leland to Muskegon
Along the way…
Along the way…
The Sleeping Bear
The Sleeping Bear
Along the way…
Along the way…
Along the way…
Along the way…
Along the way…sportier waters between Ludington and Silver Lake
Along the way…sportier waters between Ludington and Silver Lake
Along the way…
Along the way…
Along the way…waters laying down
Along the way…waters laying down
Able to see the bottom at 21’ depth
Able to see the bottom at 21’ depth
Nearing Muskegon…
Nearing Muskegon…
Nearing Muskegon
Nearing Muskegon
Nearing Muskegon
Nearing Muskegon
Approaching Muskegon (back to calm waters)
Approaching Muskegon (back to calm waters)
We’re in the calm wave pocket! (White dot=destination; green dot=us))
We’re in the calm wave pocket! (White dot=destination; green dot=us))
Dreding operation coming into Muskegon channel
Dreding operation coming into Muskegon channel
Passing the dredge barge
Passing the dredge barge
Coming in to the Harbour Towne marina
Coming in to the Harbour Towne marina
May 31, 2024: Finishers!!!
May 31, 2024: Finishers!!!
The star of the show!
The star of the show!
White burgee for sale! We are now flying a gold one!
White burgee for sale! We are now flying a gold one!